screw won't turn in outside plastic junction box Is there a way to get the screw to stay in in a slightly stripped screw hole on a plastic receptacle? I tighten the lower screw of the outlet receptacle and as soon as I tighten . Large 304 Stainless Steel Bento Box for Adults (47oz) - Lunch Box Containers with 3 Compartments, Condiment Container & Leakproof Lid for Work Food Storage - Metal Lunch Box for Adults, Men, Women
0 · plastic junction ceiling repair
1 · plastic junction box screw hole repair
2 · plastic junction box repair
3 · outside electrical box repair
4 · junction box replacement
5 · how to fix electrical box
6 · electrical outlet box screws
7 · broken junction box repair
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plastic junction ceiling repair
Since it is a plastic box I would grab the screw head with locking pliers ("vice grips") literally as tight as possible, and try to turn it out. This .
Drill out the Tapcon screw hole using an impact drill; You may first need to use a metal bit if the electrical box is metal, or a wood bit if the electrical box is plastic, to widen the opening in the . How to Fix a Screwy Electrical Box. I recently had to deal with a loose receptacle inside a plastic electrical box. It turned out the screw holes in .The ones you need to get off are the two holding the fixture to the wall, actually to the junction box in the wall. The perfect tool is one I use often, a small grinder with a metal cutting blade to just .
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plastic junction box screw hole repair
Is there a way to get the screw to stay in in a slightly stripped screw hole on a plastic receptacle? I tighten the lower screw of the outlet receptacle and as soon as I tighten .
In a couple of rooms there are outlets with stripped screws so that they are not secured to the junction box anymore. Instead of opening up the wall and replacing the box, it's way easier and faster to drill and tap the holes up to . You can shoot a screw into any location in a plastic box. Steel boxes have fewer options. Often it is easier to saw the nails or screws off and completely reinstall a steel box.However if the body of the electrical box is not actually broken, and if the problem is simply a stripped device mounting screw opening, you can avoid that effort. Approaches are provided .The electrical box repair or replacement procedures described in this article series describes step by step repairs for both metal and plastic electrical boxes used in building electrical wiring .
Drilling holes inside the box is fine, but do not drill out the dimples. That would make the box even closer to the wall. Put a dab of caulking on the screws inside the box to make it .
Residential electricians would just use drywall screws into the plastic box instead. But the suggestion below to just use the next size up machine screw is good too. Or you might just try longer 6/32 screws to get deeper and hit a place in the .Notes to the table above. About wall outlet & electrical box cover or device screws. These are standard U.S. screw sizes. The first number is the diameter of the screw (not the head of the screw) and the second number is the thread . Are you talking about the device mounting screws in a blue plastic receptacle box? If so, you can use a slightly larger screw. The usual size is 6-32. If you bump up to 8-32 it will hold tightly. If it's a fiberglass box, you'll need to fill the old hole with jb weld and tap a new screw hole.
If I fit a gland to a plastic box and use banjo's I put one on the outside as well as the inside and bolt the lot together, it acts as a washer and tends to pull everything a bit tighter. Those wiska earth bars aren't threaded though, it relies on the screw to tighten down onto the gland so the gland would still need to be secured to the box . The bare ground wire in the electrical box is supposed to connect to the green screw on that short metal bar. The body of the light fixture is meant to be grounded through the mounting screw that goes into that metal bar. Do be aware that this technique of grounding the light fixture would have been the technique used in older installations. Man, you guys just looooove your plastic boxes. You'll do anything to keep em. I'm a metal conduit guy and it would never occur to me to use a plastic box. Using a screw to attach a box to a joist isn't even a problem in my world. No inspector would flag a metal box for that.
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The 2 horizontal screws weren't flush to the sconce metal plate, so I tried to adjust them and screw them in tighter. This was when I found that the screws were barely holding anything, because the plastic screw holes were cracked and the screws could easily be pulled out. Just for an example, the mounting box looks sort of like this.
On non-metallic single gang boxes 2 1/2 x 4, the cable does not need to be clamped if it is secured within 8 inches of the outside of the box (NEC 314.17(C) Exception). Therefor, on those, if the tab breaks off, no issue.
IMO the following section prohibits drywall screws for mounting the outside lights, that is unless they both to use galvanized drywall screws. 300.6 Protection Against Corrosion. Metal raceways, cable trays, cablebus, auxiliary gutters, cable armor, boxes, cable sheathing, cabinets, elbows, couplings, fittings, supports, and support hardware .
It works better for wood, but I've used it in plastic in a pinch. You might want to apply some superglue to the toothpick before inserting it in the hole. The other option is to cut the box out entirely and replace it with an "old work" box, but that might require some drywall repair as the current box is likely nailed into the stud.I am trying to add a couple receptacles in the garage of the townhome I recently purchased. It is completely dry walled. There is one outlet in the ceiling for the garage door opener. I was thinking about putting an extension box on there and branching off with 1/2 EMT and surface mounting a 4x4 box with another outlet.I then screwed it directly into the flat plastic lid to mount it. In your case, you may need a flat plastic lid for the box that is bigger than the box in order to do that. But if there is contact between the box and the base (just not waterproof), then maybe all you need is a sheet of that gasket rubber and cut it to fit. New here, and without much electrical experience, but still alive. Bought a new combo wall oven/microwave (combo units are ridiculously expensive but had no alternatives) and need to move the wall junction box to accommodate clearance issues (the issue is the strain relief fitting at junction box outlet in the wall that forces the wall oven/mw out about half an inch from .
Why would I choose a large 4x4x2.5 metal box (this is what my brain tells me to use) vs plastic box. The plastic looks like they are all designed for installing switches or outlets and not covers but they are larger and cheaper. Is there a reason why one would not just use the plastic box and cover for a junction box either in an attic or basement. After slicing 90 deg the box would be rotated 90 deg to continue the cut . . . Alternatively, the box could be held down on a flat surface and the knife held with the cutting edge away from the thumb. The removal would be .
The junction box has what look like two screw holes and the bracket comes with two screws that look like you just slot them into the holes, or into the tracks, and tighten them down when the other screws (with the brown . One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a result, I cannot hang my smoke detector from the . That box is a type of . Flush mount or pop in box is the way to go. They'll go pretty fast after the first few. Hole saw the opening. Keep some 6 or 8/32 nuts and a magic marKer handy. So when the screw won't go back far enough screw a nut on it then cut it off.
Nearly all wall-mounted light fixtures require electrical boxes behind them. You might consider getting a metal pancake box. That's a box that is about 3/4" deep and is circular so it'll fit right behind the fixture, and in many cases can be mounted right to the face of the wallboard without recessing it.Any wiremold surface mount box. They mount to single gang boxes in the wall and provide more depth. Make sure the metal boxes are properly bonded together as the ground for the device will be dependent on the box with that old wiring. Would be best to put a grounding pigtail from the box in the wall to the wiremold box and device. The person im working with would like to drill out a hole for the entry of bx cable in a plastic box. There is a pre made punchout we could use already there in the back of the box but they would perfer to come in from the side of the box to take up less room in the closet. {were running this in the back of a closet} Drill out the stripped junction box. Step 4. Use the tapping tool and slowly turn it into the junction box. Be sure the wires are pulled to the side since the tap protrudes into the box. Also make sure to back the tap up every so often to clear the cutters. In my plastic boxes I backed off a half turn for every full turn forward. Step 5
Plastic boxes use #6 or #8 screws, while metal boxes use #6, #8, or #10 screws. 899 Sheridan Dr, West Chester, Pennsylvania. Mon – Sat: 9:00am–18:00pm. Sunday CLOSED . For standard junction boxes, a screw length of 1 to 2 inches is typically sufficient. However, for recessed or extra-thick walls, longer screws in the range of 1.5 to 2 . Turn the two screws on the box counterclockwise while pushing the screws inward. This will turn the tabs that secure the box to the wall allowing you to pull the box out. Work the cables out of the box. Get your new box, insert the cables in the box, place it in the wall and turn the screws clockwise to raise the tabs securing the box to the wall.
Plastic box, 2 screws out the back with plastic anchors (I've had bad luck with the Tap-cons on brick), perhaps silicone. That is how electrical is installed in foam / concrete homes. P. . Old brick (turn of the century stuff) can be too soft for most anchors. I'd try an adhesive route. As mentioned that foam is amazing, and SS screws in a .
Hi, Im having issues with a loose junction box in a plasterboard wall. As per the picture attached there are two issues. One is that the red lugs don’t seem to stay so when the screws start to go in it falls back and the screws won’t go in. The second issue is that the box is a . I tried the new screws in a newer box and found that if they are not aligned perfectly then only the end of the screw will go in and the rest will strip. I guess that the new screws do not tolerate even the slightest misalignment (not like the old screws), which is difficult to achieve in some retrofit situations. Thank you. –
plastic junction box repair
I am working on a 39 Sedan. I have bought a 4 x 10 sheet of 18 gauge cold rolled steel for floor patches and mainly flat stuff, but i need something more flexible to make contoured panels. The cold rolled stuff is just to hard to bend easily. I was told to get a roof off of a car. I cut one off of a 85 Buick Regal, but it is a thinner metal.
screw won't turn in outside plastic junction box|outside electrical box repair